Sulawesi

Sulawesi, once known as the Celebes (Portuguese for 'the celebrated ones'), was an important port of call in the legendary spice trade.

Most people are struck first by the baroque geography of Sulawesi, created by the primal forces of colliding continental plates. The drama of the geography continues into the topology. Rugged, mist-covered mountains tower over emerald green rice fields. Dense forests surround clear, still, highland lakes. Land meets azure sea in endless stretches of white, sandy beach, at stark limestone cliffs, or in the coastal wetland's gentle blending of soil, water and teeming life. The human geography is equally complex and fascinating a melange of peoples with superficial differences and deep similarities. The brave and fiercely independent Bugis seafarers ranged as far as China and Australia, providing the backbone of regional commerce. The highland Toraja climb sheer cliff faces, unaided, to carve deep cryots into solid rock. The Bajau spend their entire lives on the sea, able to dive for so long, that they are reputed to possess gills. An unknown culture in the remote Bada Valley carved mysterious, evocative human figures in stone. The Mandanese, isolated at the northernmost reaches of the archipelago, are fun-loving and outgoing in the midst of natural plenty.

South Sulawesi
The strange orchid-shaped island of Sulawesi, can be recognised at first glance on any map of Indonesia. No other island is quite like it. The result of ancient geological upheavals, Sulawesi's twisted, elongated limbs have given rise to unique landscapes and an abundance of nature. Home to diverse and fascinating cultures, it is a land of exciting travel experiences. The scenic seacoasts, rugged mountains and verdant rice-growing plains of South Sulawesi have their own unique fascination.

With few sites of historical or artistic importance, the charm of the region lies in well-kept towns, and the extensive seacoasts where master shipbuilders construct massive wooden schooners, essentially Portuguese galleons, using only simple hand-tools and designs passed down by rote through the centuries. The area around Ujung Pandang holds several sites of interest, from a spectacular coral reef and blinding white beaches offshore, to colourful highland market towns and the evocative ruins of vanished kingdoms.

The road leading up the west coast from Ujung Pandang to Pare-Pare is filled with awe-inspiring scenery and glimpses of Sulawesi's venerable traditions. A limestone range dominates this area, marked by intricate patterns of ridges and sheer cliffs honeycombed with caves. The South Coast is the homeland of the Makassarese, the proud, indefatigable master seafarers who once regarded piracy as an honourable profession. The beaches are a forest of masts from the hundreds of fishing boats drawn up on the sand. The fortunate may witness exciting boat races and festivals to mark the departure of the fishing fleet. The sense of lost time is still felt in the rows of sturdy pinisi hulls being erected on the beaches.

North Sulawesi
Situated on the northeastern peninsula of Sulawesi, this province stretches further north to smaller islands which almost look like stepping stones to the Philippines. Covering an area of about 27 487 sq. km, it is divided into four districts: Minahasa, Bolaang Mongondow, Gorontalo, and Sangihe Talaud islands, all of which have their different cultures.

The area is highly mountainous, culminating in 54 peaks, some of which are volcanic and still active. The coast is made up of long stretches of virgin white sandy beaches with magnificent corals and colourful tropical marine life. Despite their proximity to the mainland, the coral-fringed islets are among the most virgin in Indonesia. The most western-oriented people, hospitable and open-minded Minahasan people are Christians. Their first contact with the Europeans came in the 16th century with the arrival of Spaniards and Portuguese spice traders. However, it wasn't until the Dutch landed on their shores that they became totally Christianized. Dutch influence grew, subduing indigenous traditions. Minahasa refers to the confederacy of tribes. Monuments bear evidence of ancient systems of tribes and clans.

The western part of the province, Bolaang Mongondo and Gorontalo were formerly small Moslem principalities till the turn of the century. The southern coast is inhabited by sea nomads, a separate ethnic group which originated in the west coast of the Malay peninsula, now slowly disappearing. Remains of the Mokodompis kingdom are found in Sangir Talaud where the people are Christians as well. But there are distinct differences among these four large ethnic groups which are each composed of several tribes using their own dialects, as well as having different staple foods.